T7 problems, latest news?

I have similar concerns about collision detection system on our late 2025 model. Which was apparently built with the updated software after earlier 2025 issues. I have had emergency brake application at roundabouts, where it detects crossing vehicles and then applies brakes so you cant join the roundabout… very disconcerting.
We’ve definitely had fewer collision detection issues since the updates, but they do still happen. It’s as though the computer is slow to respond. Sadly the dealership have been unable to replicate this intermittent issue. Our concern is that computers tend to get slower with age.
 
As I've said before the 100% is what VW have decided to show on the screen. A simple line of coding in the software such as " if true battery capacity is 80% or greater then Display 100% ".
It keeps the owner happy and ensures proper smart alternator/ emissions control function.
With Lithium batteries very small voltage difference between 80 and 100% capacity.
How do you know that? Is there a way to test / prove it?
 
We’ve definitely had fewer collision detection issues since the updates, but they do still happen. It’s as though the computer is slow to respond. Sadly the dealership have been unable to replicate this intermittent issue. Our concern is that computers tend to get slower with age.
They don't get slower with age - they get slower because the software gets more complex.
 
How do you know that? Is there a way to test / prove it?
Some 3rd party battery monitor and compare readings just driving and then using EHU charging will probably show the difference in SOC.
 
Some 3rd party battery monitor and compare readings just driving and then using EHU charging will probably show the difference in SOC.
Is there a quick and accurate way to measure the life of my AGM leisure batteries in my T5.1. They were replaced a couple of years ago and hoping stil lgood for few more years.

I do have a a 100w solar panel fitted to the roof however I do see a discrepancy between the SOC shown on my renogy app and battery percentage on the oem control panel.
 
Is there a quick and accurate way to measure the life of my AGM leisure batteries in my T5.1. They were replaced a couple of years ago and hoping stil lgood for few more years.

I do have a a 100w solar panel fitted to the roof however I do see a discrepancy between the SOC shown on my renogy app and battery percentage on the oem control panel.
Disconnect Solar Panel.

how to test an agm leisure battery

To test an AGM leisure battery, you should check its resting voltage and perform a discharge (load) test. Before testing, always fully charge the battery using a compatible smart charger and let it sit disconnected for 10 to 12 hours so the surface charge dissipates.

1. Resting Voltage Test (Multimeter)
This measures the battery's state of charge. [1]
  • Ensure all appliances are off.
  • Set your multimeter to 20V DC.
  • Touch the red probe to the positive terminal and the black probe to the negative terminal.
  • Readings:
    • 12.7V to 12.9V: Fully charged (Healthy).
    • 12.4V: 75% charged.
    • 12.2V: 50% charged (Time to recharge to prevent sulfation).
    • 12.0V or lower: Deeply discharged or failing.

2. Discharge / Load Test
Resting voltage does not always tell you if the battery has lost its capacity (Amp-Hours) over time.
  • Fully charge your battery.
  • Connect a known 12V draw—such as your motorhome/caravan lights—to pull around 5 Amps.
  • Monitor the time it takes for the voltage to drop down to \(10.5V\), which is the threshold of being fully discharged.
  • A healthy 100Ah battery should take roughly 10 to 15 hours to reach this limit depending on the exact discharge rate.
If your battery drops below 11.5V almost immediately when a small load is applied, it has likely lost its capacity and needs replacing
 
Disconnect Solar Panel.

how to test an agm leisure battery

To test an AGM leisure battery, you should check its resting voltage and perform a discharge (load) test. Before testing, always fully charge the battery using a compatible smart charger and let it sit disconnected for 10 to 12 hours so the surface charge dissipates.

1. Resting Voltage Test (Multimeter)
This measures the battery's state of charge. [1]
  • Ensure all appliances are off.
  • Set your multimeter to 20V DC.
  • Touch the red probe to the positive terminal and the black probe to the negative terminal.
  • Readings:
    • 12.7V to 12.9V: Fully charged (Healthy).
    • 12.4V: 75% charged.
    • 12.2V: 50% charged (Time to recharge to prevent sulfation).
    • 12.0V or lower: Deeply discharged or failing.

2. Discharge / Load Test
Resting voltage does not always tell you if the battery has lost its capacity (Amp-Hours) over time.
  • Fully charge your battery.
  • Connect a known 12V draw—such as your motorhome/caravan lights—to pull around 5 Amps.
  • Monitor the time it takes for the voltage to drop down to \(10.5V\), which is the threshold of being fully discharged.
  • A healthy 100Ah battery should take roughly 10 to 15 hours to reach this limit depending on the exact discharge rate.
If your battery drops below 11.5V almost immediately when a small load is applied, it has likely lost its capacity and needs replacing
Thank you
That makes sense
 
My starter battery is hovering around 12.2 to 12.0
When it gets to 11.9v, the lesuire drops 30a and charges the starter battery up.
This is a brand new 2.0 tdi Beach.
Never knew the lesuire battery charges the starter Batt in a t7 Cali !
I drove 300 miles on Thursday.
I’d expect my start batt to be around 12.9v

Going to pop my Victron Bluetooth sensor across the starter batt to monitor.
Then pop it on EHU tomorrow day.
 
My starter battery is hovering around 12.2 to 12.0
When it gets to 11.9v, the lesuire drops 30a and charges the starter battery up.
This is a brand new 2.0 tdi Beach.
Never knew the lesuire battery charges the starter Batt in a t7 Cali !
I drove 300 miles on Thursday.
I’d expect my start batt to be around 12.9v

Going to pop my Victron Bluetooth sensor across the starter batt to monitor.
Then pop it on EHU tomorrow day.
Good luck finding it!
 
Good luck finding it!
I lifted the mat and it ain’t there.
I’ll need a dry day I guess to find it.
I read somewhere it’s under the carpet.
What a ball a3he !
 
I lifted the mat and it ain’t there.
I’ll need a dry day I guess to find it.
I read somewhere it’s under the carpet.
What a ball a3he !
It’s under the passenger seat but you cannot get to it without removing the seat and disconnecting the leads. I believe this will throw up a fault and is a trip to the dealer to reset.
If you are willing to try I would love to know. I’m going to put a shunt on the starter battery if I can figure out how to do it without a dealer visit.
 
I lifted the mat and it ain’t there.
I’ll need a dry day I guess to find it.
I read somewhere it’s under the carpet.
What a ball a3he !
It’s under the passenger seat but you cannot get to it without removing the seat and disconnecting the leads. I believe this will throw up a fault and is a trip to the dealer to reset.
If you are willing to try I would love to know. I’m going to put a shunt on the starter battery if I can figure out how to do it without a dealer visit.
On my Hybrid, that has the 12v engine battery in the same place, there are +tve and -tve contacts within the engine bay, passenger side RHD, for jump starting a flat 12v engine battery. Can you not connect a battery monitor across those contacts?
 
My batteries are behaving as expected, left with the fridge on and the leisure batteries are down to 20% over 3 or 4 days, a 15 minute drive brings them back up.

I’m struggling with the creaks a rattles a bit and have discovered that the main culprit is the sliding door under the kitchen unit. Foam strips fix it but look unsightly and are a pain in the arse to wedge in place every time we set off.
 
Can you not connect a battery monitor across those contacts?
Yes.
An AA man did so, when VW called them out due my Ocean having drained all batteries on my drive. Since had SW update and replacement control unit.
I keep mine on permanent hook up now.
 
On my Hybrid, that has the 12v engine battery in the same place, there are +tve and -tve contacts within the engine bay, passenger side RHD, for jump starting a flat 12v engine battery. Can you not connect a battery monitor across those contacts?
The minus terminal at the back had a nice place you can unscrew a bolt and attach a round lug underneath.
Good plan WG.
And the red + on the left looks like it goes backwards towards the bulkhead.
The right one looks to go to the starter motor, bottom right of engine.

View attachment IMG_1152.jpeg
View attachment IMG_1153.jpeg
 
My batteries are behaving as expected, left with the fridge on and the leisure batteries are down to 20% over 3 or 4 days, a 15 minute drive brings them back up.

I’m struggling with the creaks a rattles a bit and have discovered that the main culprit is the sliding door under the kitchen unit. Foam strips fix it but look unsightly and are a pain in the arse to wedge in place every time we set off.
This is the joy of campervan ownership ;)
Finding the creaks and rattles.
I spent 6 months finding sources of rattles in my 7.4m Laika ecovip.
Then the first trip of 2k mile trip in 11 days it was bliss.
Not a rattle.
Drove it like I stole it up hairpin bends at 10pm at night to Bargemon, and it was silent !
 
Had ours Beach since December and enjoyed a couple of weekends away. Zero issues with anything. The leisure battery will discharge slowly if left standing for long periods of time so the occasional trip to the shops will help keep that topped up. Enjoy the van life!
 
This is the joy of campervan ownership ;)
Finding the creaks and rattles.
I spent 6 months finding sources of rattles in my 7.4m Laika ecovip.
Then the first trip of 2k mile trip in 11 days it was bliss.
Not a rattle.
Drove it like I stole it up hairpin bends at 10pm at night to Bargemon, and it was silent !
"I’m struggling with the creaks a rattles a bit and have discovered that the main culprit is the sliding door under the kitchen unit. Foam strips fix it but look unsightly and are a pain in the arse to wedge in place every time we set off."

I do the same. The biggest "rattle" I found came from inside the cabinet immediately to the left of the sink. At the top. There is some air ducting there that in mine was not adequately fixed, so stuffed paper and foam behind/around. It was making an almighty noise over rough roads!
 
Back
Top