Which type of plastic for 3D printed materials?

[Pitstop Penny]

A random one. We’ve got a little 3D printer and have started making the odd little thing for the camper, but now I’m worried we’re using stuff that melts easily. Anyone else use PLA and not have any issue or is it worth getting something non melty?

 

[vbk1975]

View attachment 148065A random one. We’ve got a little 3D printer and have started making the odd little thing for the camper, but now I’m worried we’re using stuff that melts easily. Anyone else use PLA and not have any issue or is it worth getting something non melty?

PLA will cope with about 60c, PETG around 80 and ABS 100. So depends if you are tipping boiling water down the sink. They won’t melt as such but will deform at those temps.

Not related to your question, but I feel I should stay away, whilst not strictly a food item, your strainer is sort of. 3D layer printing is basically not food safe, the construct of layers means that bacteria can get into the layers and washing doesn’t get rid of it. I have never used it, but you can buy food safe vanish to seal the parts. I have made moulds / cutters etc for food but either use cling film in the mould to protect them or only use for a few uses.

I always use PETG for outdoor stuff, just a bit better across a number factors, temp, strength, longevity outside. But ultimately it has limits but it is a good compromise for speed of print and cost.

I have printed ABS it more challenging to print and lets off a hot plastic smell.

I have done some stuff for Rally car adapter mounts and gone with PA6-CF for temp resistance, basically a nylon with carbon fibres.

 

[Pitstop Penny]

PLA will cope with about 60c, PETG around 80 and ABS 100. So depends if you are tipping boiling water down the sink. They won’t melt as such but will deform at those temps.

Not related to your question, but I feel I should stay away, whilst not strictly a food item, your strainer is sort of. 3D layer printing is basically not food safe, the construct of layers means that bacteria can get into the layers and washing doesn’t get rid of it. I have never used it, but you can buy food safe vanish to seal the parts. I have made moulds / cutters etc for food but either use cling film in the mould to protect them or only use for a few uses.

I always use PETG for outdoor stuff, just a bit better across a number factors, temp, strength, longevity outside. But ultimately it has limits but it is a good compromise for speed of print and cost.

I have printed ABS it more challenging to print and lets off a hot plastic smell.

I have done some stuff for Rally car adapter mounts and gone with PA6-CF for temp resistance, basically a nylon with carbon fibres.

This is so helpful, thank you! I only plan to make a mount for the Starlink. Maybe some hooks for the awning. Some hooks for indoors. A corner shelf for the roof bit. And some washing line stuff!

 

[vbk1975]

This is so helpful, thank you! I only plan to make a mount for the Starlink. Maybe some hooks for the awning. Some hooks for indoors. A corner shelf for the roof bit. And some washing line stuff!

I have a Bambu P1S. I use PETG from eSUN as my default, but lots of stuff available for £10-18 1.1kg, I would use that for outside stuff. Generic light grey generally looks perfectly nice in the van. Just use strength settings for any of the hooks / washing line stuff and print a few extra as spares or campsite gifts.

Just for info and it is expensive for being a PLA, I have found “kexcelled Matte PLA Tech Gray Filament” is the closest match to the T6 interior grey plastic bits.