Side Window Removal and Repair of Rubber Seal

[egena]

Leaking side windows
As also covered in this excellent post by TripleBee, I would like to provide my take on the side window removal process, to aid in finally stopping the leaking window from worn/compressed or damaged rubber seals (new seal is shown on the left).

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Removing the side window
For the purpose of this guide, we will be removing the kitchen sliding window but the principle is the same for either side.
The window design is fairly simplistic - it slides back and forth on plastic runners, with metal guide pins sitting in rails. The pins and rails are identical along the top and the bottom of the sliding window.


With the T6 California blinds running along the top edge and getting in the way, the idea is to lift the bottom of the sliding window frame and hop the pins off the rails. The side closest to the front seats has a single pin (very easy) and the side furthest from the front seats has 2 pins, plus a third locking pin that is operated by the opening release handle. The locking pin sits in the periodic holes alongside the rail.

Covering your glass top and its surrounding aluminium frame (cardboard is great for this - I used my flexible plastic yellow chopping board), open the window half way, ensuring the handle stays open by itself because the locking pin isn't engaged in a hole.
Using a trim tools of choice (I used the metal "Clip remover" tool, as it has a very useful rubber boot that prevents any damage) gently lever them free.

Once both sides are free, gently slide the bottom of the window towards you, making sure your cardboard or plastic (even a few sheets of A4 stacked together will work well) is beneath, so the pins can safely slide without damaging any surfaces. This will drop the window low enough to get under the blind handle and lift it all away.

 

[egena]

Putting In The New Rubber Gasket
Now you're able to see all of the existing seal around the edge of the window. Pinch it and remove it - it will come out very easily.

Give the area a good clean with window cleaner and, if you have some available, some isopropanol alcohol, just to remove any grease that may have built up over the years. Remove any blobs of old sealant around the handle area - doesn't need to be perfect, just a clear channel so the new rubber gasket can sit in nicely.

Once done, start inserting the new rubber gasket into the channel. Its foot is not central so its easy to spot how it goes in. I started at the opening handle and worked my way around from there.

Once back at the beginning, the gasket comes with about 20cm of extra length so you're able to cut it to size. The handle area doesn't have a channel so its necessary to trim the foot off so it sits flush.
I cut the main gasket so it had a 1mm overlap with the beginning.

 

[egena]

Applying the Sealant
Apply plenty of sealant around the area that doesn't have a channel, ensuring some has also been applied to the two ends that will meet. Bring them together, pressed down gently, set the window aside for an hour so it can dry/cure.

Mounting the Window Back In
This is essentially the same process as above but in reverse.
Once again, the window is identical, top and bottom. The two pins furthest from the front seats can rotate through the winding rails as the window slides to close. These need to be aligned straight, by hand, first.

Tuck the window behind the blinds and slide the bottom of the window away from you, towards the main window. This will press the upper window pins into the upper rails and will remain aligned and in place for you so you only need to focus on the lower ones. Again, ensure you have some paper or thin cardboard/plastic for the pins to sit on safely as you push them away from you towards the window frame.
Use the trim tool of choice, to raise the bottom of the sliding window and guide the pins into the lower rail. It may take a few moments but its very easy to do. (sometimes the hinged two pins are just slightly misaligned as seen below - persevere!)

 

[egena]

Closing the window
For the first few times, the new rubber gasket will need to slowly get used to the window seating position. On the first attempt to close it, you will find it resisting you at the final half-centimeter.
Apply some closing pressure from the inside, then take a walk around outside with a curved metal implement (I used a shallow teaspoon) and run it the length of the visible gasket, pushing it towards the front seats. Walk back around, inside, and apply the final pressure so the handle lays flat.

You have now successfully changed your rubber gasket!

Tools I used;

• Replacement rubber gasket (use code 10matt for a discount)
• Trim tool Pack (the rubber booted clip remover was perfect!)
• Very sharp knife (to cut effortlessly and cleanly through the new gasket)
• Reinzosil Sealant (or equivalent - must be non-solvent based so the rubber is safe)
• Teaspoon (preferably a shallow one)

NOTE: Its a good idea to clean the window contact areas that the rubber seal presses against and also the drainage holes, whilst the window is out. There are 4 altogether; 2 main rail holes and two window frame slots. I used a gentle plastic tie wrap as its thin enough to get into the window frame slots. The two furthest from the front seats were super dirty, for me, because they aren't accessible when the window is in the frame and my T6 is 9 years old so had a little bit of a build-up!

None of them work very well at all, but with the new gasket and having these as clean as you can get them (be gentle when doing so) you should be in a great position.

 

[WelshGas]

Closing the window
For the first few times, the new rubber gasket will need to slowly get used to the window seating position. On the first attempt to close it, you will find it resisting you at the final half-centimeter.
Apply some closing pressure from the inside, then take a walk around outside with a curved metal implement (I used a shallow teaspoon) and run it the length of the visible gasket, pushing it towards the front seats. Walk back around, inside, and apply the final pressure so the handle lays flat.

View attachment 150829

View attachment 150830

View attachment 150831

You have now successfully changed your rubber gasket!

Tools I used;

• Replacement rubber gasket (use code 10matt for a discount)
• Trim tool Pack (the rubber booted clip remover was perfect!)
• Very sharp knife (to cut effortlessly and cleanly through the new gasket)
• Reinzosil Sealant (or equivalent - must be non-solvent based so the rubber is safe)
• Teaspoon (preferably a shallow one)

NOTE: Its a good idea to clean the window contact areas that the rubber seal presses against and also the drainage holes, whilst the window is out. There are 4 altogether; 2 main rail holes and two window frame slots. I used a gentle plastic tie wrap as its thin enough to get into the window frame slots. The two furthest from the front seats were super dirty, for me, because they aren't accessible when the window is in the frame and my T6 is 9 years old so had a little bit of a build-up!

View attachment 150832

View attachment 150833

View attachment 150834

None of them work very well at all, but with the new gasket and having these as clean as you can get them (be gentle when doing so) you should be in a great position.

Could you create a pdf file and post it in the Resources section of the Forum so that it can be easily found by Forum members in the future?

 

[owen_h]

Excellent, clear and detailed explanation. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and explain the steps.
There are some videos on utube describing removing the sliding section which don’t work for a California as they tell you to work on rear pins top and bottom and then swing the section in. In a California the blind stops you swinging the window in. Your method of levering up the bottom edge first makes more sense.


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