Running 12v to Rear Cupboard?

[buckie10]

Hi All,

First time poster looking for a bit of advice please.

I've had my '24 Ocean since the start of the year, I love it to bits but I keep finding things to "improve"... I have a 5G router (Spitz AX) which has been living on the sink powered via mains adapter. I wanted it out of the way and direct off 12v, so I've relocated it to the rear cupboard and powered it via 12v from the rear 12v socket via a long 12v cable slung behind our rear tray and up the other side through the front of the cupboard. Not pretty but it works (Mobile reception is surprisingly good even with the doors shut).

Is there a simple way to get 12v into that cupboard? Where would be best to take it from? I don't really want to be removing trim but I do have cable pullers/pushers if there's an accessible route.

I started off thinking about going from the rear 12v socket over and behind the airline cupboard/speaker area but that seems a bit of a faff?
I can sort of see a run behind the kitchen units coming generally from the direction of the passenger seat battery which has cables along it - would that get me somewhere near?

As I say any advice appreciated - especially if it lets a lazy person do a reasonable job

Cheers,

Mark.

 

[sidepod]

Is this a 6 or a 7?

If it’s a 6 then here’s what I did.
I added a couple of lights and a USB to the rear pull down cupboard.
I ran a fused feed directly from the battery below the wardrobe.
Simple and obvious route.
I added an extra 240v skt whilst I was in there, simply tied into the RCBO.

 

[lohr500]

If T6.1 as per the vehicle description in your profile, then as @sidepod suggests, run a connection down to the leisure battery below the wardrobe.

You will need to remove the tiltable rear bed section to gain access to the panel hiding the battery, but this is easy to do.

Make sure you fit an appropriately sized inline fuse as close to the battery connection as possible.

And remember to switch off the router when not in use as it will drain both leisure batteries over time if the van isn't used regularly!!!

 

[sidepod]

I did stare at this job for ages trying to work out where the 12v socket could go without compromising and cupboard space etc.
In the end the only decent location I could come up with was where I put it.
It works well. Always accessible and no loss of usable space.

The ally/honeycomb composite panels are easy and clean to drill. Just use a pilot hole and a step drill.

Use proper Tesa harness tape to match the oem wiring and nobody will ever know it didn’t leave the factory like that.

 

[buckie10]

Thanks Gents... Looks like the bed is coming out! Can you tell me, did you put the -ve to the leisure battery terminal or to the frame of the van? Also does the BMS detect the current draw?

 

[WelshGas]

Thanks Gents... Looks like the bed is coming out! Can you tell me, did you put the -ve to the leisure battery terminal or to the frame of the van? Also does the BMS detect the current draw?

As you have a T6.1, wire to the chassis. The battery clamp bolt is a good option.

 

[AdamsFamily]

I'm terrible with car electrics - would adding another 3 pin socket and a USBA/C in the rear like @sidepod has be an expensive thing to have an Auto Electrician do?
IE is it a long job or would maybe 1/2 day do it?

 

[sidepod]

I'm terrible with car electrics - would adding another 3 pin socket and a USBA/C in the rear like @sidepod has be an expensive thing to have an Auto Electrician do?
IE is it a long job or would maybe 1/2 day do it?

Couple of hours

 

[Roger Boeken]

I'm terrible with car electrics - would adding another 3 pin socket and a USBA/C in the rear like @sidepod has be an expensive thing to have an Auto Electrician do?
IE is it a long job or would maybe 1/2 day do it?

As an alternative : I used 12V near sliding door and made as on photo below (there is even a on/off button in the middle, no parasitic currents when not in use.)