Oil filter confusion

[2cvhound]

I need to get my Cali serviced and was planning on buying the OEM service kit from Campervan Bits, but I'm very confused as the type of oil filter included in either the A or B options looks nothing like the one in my engine which is a standard shape of oil filter rather than one that is taken apart. The one on there is a BluePrint ADV182131. Does this mean that at the last service which was a non vw, the whole mechanism was replaced or is this normal? Very confused! All advice welcome! The vehicle is a 2010 2.0 twin turbo (the good engine!)

 

[TripleBee]

I am not really sure what you really mean, but BluePrint isn't OEM from VW.
Only the black metal oil filter will be replaced.
What do you mean by the whole mechanism? If you mean the Pierburg combi oil filter holder/EGR-cooler, this one must have been replaced at least once in it's lifetime, as your van is from 2010, it will have had the VW part number without index, or index A.

 

[2cvhound]

Yes the EGR was replaced in 2018 from the plate in the pic. Sorry I should have been clearer. Campervan bits says there are two types of oil filter that are round and bolt together - nothing like anything I have seen before. Here are the pics of the Type A from the Campervan website. It may be that they are some other form of air filter that is also replaced and they have simply misnamed it as an oil filter (and confused me!).

 

[2cvhound]

Does anyone else have what I would describe as a standard type of oil filter like this on the front of the engine about halfway down? It is an unusual way up as most engines I have seen have it horizontal or even hanging down but not pointing up. (I am used to much older engine designs tbh like a 2CV with it's 1930's flat twin layout!)

 

[sidepod]

Not a style of filter VW have used since the T4.
Sure it’s not a DSG filter?

 

[TripleBee]

A lot of petrol engines from VAG have this oil filter: 04e 115 561 ac
And most of the time, it hangs horizontal on the underside of the engine.

My CCHA diesel engine has a vertical insert oil filter


So it's all just a matter of choice how the engine is designed, and what oil filter the engineers found the most suited.

 

[Vagophile]

My 2013 bi-turbo has the same canister filter. It is not like any shown in @TripleBee's post. My local factor provides a replacement without any problems or questions when I say it's for a 180 bi-turbo. My only comment is it was a pain to remove until I bought a "spider leg" gripper.

 

[Vagophile]

Oil Change - how much?​

Lots of info in here.

 

[Vagophile]

Oil Change - how much?

I am just about to do an oil change but I cannot find, anywhere in the owner's manual how much oil is required. I think it is 6 litres. Can ayone confirm this? Thank you.

vwcaliforniaclub.com

I might eventually master the art of copy and paste!

 

[Alexlex85]

Do yourself a favour and either egr delete or replace your egr cooler with the one bellow.
Im aware yours is a revision D which in theory is better than the earlier ones however there are reports recently where the rev D are failing too.

VW Transporter T5.1 2.0 TDI Bi-Turbo CFCA - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) and Cooler - 03L 115 512 D / 03L115512D

BRAND NEW OEM EGR Valve & Cooler

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

Should yours fail you will be looking at an engine replacement at a potential tune of £15k through a garage.


Your correct filter for a CFCA 180 T5 below

Loading…

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

 

[2cvhound]

Do yourself a favour and either egr delete or replace your egr cooler with the one bellow.
Im aware yours is a revision D which in theory is better than the earlier ones however there are reports recently where the rev D are failing too.

VW Transporter T5.1 2.0 TDI Bi-Turbo CFCA - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) and Cooler - 03L 115 512 D / 03L115512D

BRAND NEW OEM EGR Valve & Cooler

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

Should yours fail you will be looking at an engine replacement at a potential tune of £15k through a garage.


Your correct filter for a CFCA 180 T5 below

Loading…

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

That's worrying if the D's are failing. The new one sounds appealing but even that only has a 12month warranty and will cost over a grand to get and fit. If mine failed I would go for a recon engine as a new one wouldn't make sense on a 16 year old Cali that has already done 140k

 

[2cvhound]

I am amazed at how much variation there is the VW engines. AFAIK mine is a 2.0L (1968cc) Bi turbo. I will try and get under it at the weekend to look for another filter in case this is not the main oil filter. I can't be a DSG as it's a manual gearbox.

 

[TripleBee]

I am amazed at how much variation there is the VW engines. AFAIK mine is a 2.0L (1968cc) Bi turbo. I will try and get under it at the weekend to look for another filter in case this is not the main oil filter. I can't be a DSG as it's a manual gearbox.

I am amazed at how much variation there is the VW engines. AFAIK mine is a 2.0L (1968cc) Bi turbo. I will try and get under it at the weekend to look for another filter in case this is not the main oil filter. I can't be a DSG as it's a manual gearbox.

 

[Alexlex85]

That's worrying if the D's are failing. The new one sounds appealing but even that only has a 12month warranty and will cost over a grand to get and fit. If mine failed I would go for a recon engine as a new one wouldn't make sense on a 16 year old Cali that has already done 140k

Mine was a Rev D and quite a few others have reported the same.

Your cheapest and most straightforward option is probably an EGR delete with the system coded out.

Replacing it shouldn’t be too difficult either; it’s located right at the front, low down on the engine.

I’d steer clear of reconditioned engines. Most CFCA engines suffered from the same issue, which leads to scored cylinder bores. Properly fixing this involves machining and honing the cylinders, and getting it right is tricky it can be the difference between an engine lasting 20,000 miles or 200,000 miles. High compression engines, tight tolerances, high emission standards, dpf regens, etc.

Either way, you’ll likely be out of warranty, and the phrase “buy cheap, buy twice” may end up ringing true.
Cant tell you how many "engine builders" stories I have heard.
UK the only place on earth where anyone can overstate their qualification with no proof, requirement or standards.

 

[Vagophile]

There's not another filter!
You have the combined expertise of this forum and you don't want to take it?

 

[2cvhound]

There's not another filter!
You have the combined expertise of this forum and you don't want to take it?

I'm not doubting the wisdom in the forum, but very surprised as I have never come across a filter in that position / alignment and the fact that is completely different to the one shown in pictures. But also from my experience with forums, always look for consensus opinions as well meaning newbies can sometimes give wrong advice!

 

[2cvhound]

Mine was a Rev D and quite a few others have reported the same.

Your cheapest and most straightforward option is probably an EGR delete with the system coded out.

Replacing it shouldn’t be too difficult either; it’s located right at the front, low down on the engine.

I’d steer clear of reconditioned engines. Most CFCA engines suffered from the same issue, which leads to scored cylinder bores. Properly fixing this involves machining and honing the cylinders, and getting it right is tricky it can be the difference between an engine lasting 20,000 miles or 200,000 miles. High compression engines, tight tolerances, high emission standards, dpf regens, etc.

Either way, you’ll likely be out of warranty, and the phrase “buy cheap, buy twice” may end up ringing true.
Cant tell you how many "engine builders" stories I have heard.
UK the only place on earth where anyone can overstate their qualification with no proof, requirement or standards.

I'm starting to regret buying the vehicle! It's great to own and drive, but so expensive to run! I'm managing 35mpg on average but a set of tyres was nearly £900 recently, replacing the EGR at £1,000 is serious money especially as there is no guarantee how long it will last!

 

[2cvhound]

I'm starting to regret buying the vehicle! It's great to own and drive, but so expensive to run! I'm managing 35mpg on average but a set of tyres was nearly £900 recently, replacing the EGR at £1,000 is serious money especially as there is no guarantee how long it will last!

Surely EGR deletion would be technically illegal / MOT failure?

Thank you everyone for your advice and the links

 

[2cvhound]

Is there a way of testing the health of the EGR to see if it working well and healthy?

 

[WelshGas]

Is there a way of testing the health of the EGR to see if it working well and healthy?

Short answer No. It is either working or not. But its not the valve per se causing the problem its the valve oil cooler that is the problem. The internal cooling fins breakdown liberating aluminium oxide particles into the oil that damage the cylinder bores. The only way to find out if this is happening is an Oil Analysis on used oil . Aluminium particles should be 0 parts/ ml.
To prove you have damage then a compression test.

 

[2cvhound]

Short answer No. It is either working or not. But its not the valve per se causing the problem its the valve oil cooler that is the problem. The internal cooling fins breakdown liberating aluminium oxide particles into the oil that damage the cylinder bores. The only way to find out if this is happening is an Oil Analysis on used oil . Aluminium particles should be 0 parts/ ml.
To prove you have damage then a compression test.

Thank you!! So I need to get a sample of used oil and then find somewhere that can test it for Aluminium Oxide particles. Would a VW dealer be good or should I look for a specialist?

 

[Vagophile]

So I need to get a sample of used oil and then find somewhere that can test it for Aluminium Oxide

Millers oils provide an oil testing service.

 

[WelshGas]

Thank you!! So I need to get a sample of used oil and then find somewhere that can test it for Aluminium Oxide particles. Would a VW dealer be good or should I look for a specialist?

VW wouldn’t be interested.

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