Hydraulic roof sagging (T6.1) — Emergency strap and temperature question

Olivier&Lory

Olivier&Lory

Messages
27
Location
France
Vehicle
T6.1 Coast 150
Hello everyone,

After thoroughly browsing the various forum threads (and following my introduction with Nami), I’m here to share an update on my mishaps with the electro-hydraulic roof.

I had a real scare yesterday afternoon: in barely half a day, the passenger side sagged by 10 to 15 cm... Total panic at the moment ! After cycling the roof up and down fully a few times with the engine running, the pressure rebalanced, but there definitely seems to be an issue with the seal or a valve.

For now, I plan to use the standard workaround: securing the scissor mechanism with a strap @sidepod :thumb (on both sides, just to be safe) before potentially investing in rigid blocks like "Roof Locks" (made of plastic or aluminum).

If I secure both scissor mechanisms with straps as soon as the roof is raised, will that effectively prevent putting too much strain on the mechanism and making the situation worse? I admit the prospect of a four-figure bill from VW makes me a bit anxious...

Also, it’s very hot where I live right now (between 30 and 35°C). In your experience, can high heat thin out the hydraulic fluid and contribute to this pressure loss? Do you think the system might hold better once temperatures drop, or is this an inevitable sign that a garage visit is needed (to replace a ram or pump)?

A huge thank you to the entire community for the wealth of discussions and all the solutions shared here!

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If I secure both scissor mechanisms with straps as soon as the roof is raised, will that effectively prevent putting too much strain on the mechanism and making the situation worse?
I’m not sure this sentence makes any sense?

The straps effectively remove the pressure on the system which will prevent the bypass that causes sagging. No extra strain is applied anywhere, unless of course you forget to remove them prior to lowering.
 
Actually, I wanted to know if using this method would make the situation worse. I’d like this to be a temporary fix. If there is a leak, preventing the sagging shouldn't put a strain on the cylinders—if I understand correctly.
 
As an aside if that's a T6.1 you shouldn't really be using a bungee chord around the bellows.

The hot temperatures will make the problem worse. I don't think using straps will. They just provide a manual solution...
 
The bungee can help to pull the bellows out of the roof fixing groove, mainly at the rear corners.
 
I think I'll remove the bungee cord around the roof fabric, just to be safe.
The straps held up really well—no sagging! It's perfect. And when I removed the straps, it didn't drop suddenly—I was worried about that...
However, when closing it, I heard a "clack" on the passenger side, and the roof stayed slightly open. I opened and closed it again, and it's fine now.
I plan to check if there's any rubbing or something else obstructing the initial movement. To check for leaks as well, do I need to remove the black plastic covers at the bottom?
Everything looks clean around the headliner. Is it best to start checking where disassembly is easiest?IMG_20260820_202222.jpgIMG_20260820_202511.jpg
 
Just an observation but that elastic band is way too tight.
Personally I don’t use one but even so from that first picture it’s clearly still pulling in the material. It rubs the material and pulls at the seams.

I hope you get your roof problems sorted.

Our 2008 Cali did the sagging thing a lot one summer around 2012 and then it just stopped doing it. Been fine for last 14 years. Odd I know.

I am always in the van with my head in the hatch when I lower it to make sure the cloth folds inwards. When it’s about 75% down I stop and tuck in the front of the cloth above the hatch, which naturally folds in a tidy way. I then lower the last 25% - about 20cm.

This pause might let your roof even out? I would avoid closing that last 20cm if it wasn’t level. Feels like that might break something. I would open and close it 75% again until it was level.
 
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That's true—thanks, I hadn't thought about not closing it all the way. And since there are two of us, that should avoid any issues. I'm still going to remove a couple of covers to check for leaks, though.
 
Uneven closing can occur because the van is on a slight slope when closing the roof. It’s happened to us.
 
I think I'll remove the bungee cord around the roof fabric, just to be safe.
The straps held up really well—no sagging! It's perfect. And when I removed the straps, it didn't drop suddenly—I was worried about that...
However, when closing it, I heard a "clack" on the passenger side, and the roof stayed slightly open. I opened and closed it again, and it's fine now.
I plan to check if there's any rubbing or something else obstructing the initial movement. To check for leaks as well, do I need to remove the black plastic covers at the bottom?
Everything looks clean around the headliner. Is it best to start checking where disassembly is easiest?View attachment 151042View attachment 151044
I had this on my pop top. Its a hook under the roof that slots under the scissor arm when its on its final bit of closing. It slots under the arm which has a black plastic piece to stop rattles (I assume), mine was smashed off and the bits were in the gutter. I posted it at the time, I'll see if I can find it with the pictures.
Found it.
Thread 'Pop top clunks when first opened' https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/pop-top-clunks-when-first-opened.53644/
 
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I think I'll remove the bungee cord around the roof fabric, just to be safe.
The straps held up really well—no sagging! It's perfect. And when I removed the straps, it didn't drop suddenly—I was worried about that...
However, when closing it, I heard a "clack" on the passenger side, and the roof stayed slightly open. I opened and closed it again, and it's fine now.
I plan to check if there's any rubbing or something else obstructing the initial movement. To check for leaks as well, do I need to remove the black plastic covers at the bottom?
Everything looks clean around the headliner. Is it best to start checking where disassembly is easiest?View attachment 151042View attachment 151044
This is the thread with the pictures of the hook under the roof. I just moved mine back a bit.
Thread 'Snap, Crackle Pop-roof' https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/snap-crackle-pop-roof.54039/
 
Wow, those two posts are really interesting. Thanks a lot!

I checked, and sure enough, I’m missing part no. 5. I’m going to order one and make the adjustment once I receive it.

I hope that helps with closing it. It was cooler here yesterday, and the operation went very smoothly.

As for the loss of height, I’m not sure, because I had the straps on .

Have a great day!
 
Wow, those two posts are really interesting. Thanks a lot!

I checked, and sure enough, I’m missing part no. 5. I’m going to order one and make the adjustment once I receive it.

I hope that helps with closing it. It was cooler here yesterday, and the operation went very smoothly.

As for the loss of height, I’m not sure, because I had the straps on .

Have a great day!
I temporarily replaced the part with 2 layers of anti rattle tape. (Its still there 2 years later).
The problem you have is, you can not see the position as the roof is down. I put some tape on the poptop to mark its position and moved it back approximately 1mm. If you put a new plastic bit on the arm and the adjustment in to tight it will shear it if again. You put a few layers of tape you can see if the hook us still catching the tape edge before you put the new plastic but on.
I think mine started after the pop top was replaced, when the van went back in (for another pop top) I pointed it out to the technician. His look did not fill me with confidence, he didn't know about the hook or know what the cprrect positioning was. I asked for them to replace the part. But nothing was changed, I might get around to buying a new one some day.

20240416_113554.jpg
 
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