Fresh Water Tank Leak

[MarkHawkins68]

Hello

I have the dreaded fresh water tank leak, I think I may not have drained it down last winter for the first time since buying our Cali 4 years ago, so it's self inflicted!

I've read a lot of information on this fantastic site but haven't really seen much about how to access the water tank and how people resolved the problem.

I think the only solution involves taking the wardrobe out I believe which I assume will be very expensive at a dealership so I am ( probably foolishly! ) going to have a go myself.

I have spoken to a few dealers and independent specialists but nobody has any experience of fixing this issue.

Is there anyone that has successfully resolved this issue themselves that could maybe provide some advice before I remove the interior of our Cali and have a lot of bits on our front garden that I can't put back!

Thank you

Mark

 

[WelshGas]

Hello

I have the dreaded fresh water tank leak, I think I may not have drained it down last winter for the first time since buying our Cali 4 years ago, so it's self inflicted!

I've read a lot of information on this fantastic site but haven't really seen much about how to access the water tank and how people resolved the problem.

I think the only solution involves taking the wardrobe out I believe which I assume will be very expensive at a dealership so I am ( probably foolishly! ) going to have a go myself.

I have spoken to a few dealers and independent specialists but nobody has any experience of fixing this issue.

Is there anyone that has successfully resolved this issue themselves that could maybe provide some advice before I remove the interior of our Cali and have a lot of bits on our front garden that I can't put back!

Thank you

Mark

What exactly is the problem? Where is the leak.?
Does the drainage tap have full range of movement?

 

[MarkHawkins68]

What exactly is the problem? Where is the leak.?
Does the drainage tap have full range of movement?

Thank you for replying. Sorry, I should have put more details. The leak is dripping from the usual drain under the vehicle, I have tried everything with adjusting the tap and removing the tray underneath and I only noticed it after the winter so I am almost certain that it has frozen/ expanded over the winter but I can't find anyone who has any experience of fixing the issue. From what I have found out the valve and pipework are pretty standard domestic plumbing parts but it's how to get to it! I have spent hours and hours so far, could have properly fixed it in the time I've spent investigating!

 

[WelshGas]

Thank you for replying. Sorry, I should have put more details. The leak is dripping from the usual drain under the vehicle, I have tried everything with adjusting the tap and removing the tray underneath and I only noticed it after the winter so I am almost certain that it has frozen/ expanded over the winter but I can't find anyone who has any experience of fixing the issue. From what I have found out the valve and pipework are pretty standard domestic plumbing parts but it's how to get to it! I have spent hours and hours so far, could have properly fixed it in the time I've spent investigating!

This is an uncommon problem. I would suggest trying this first.
I would suggest removing the drain lever and then turn the spindle to the fully closed position and see if the leak stops. If it does then reattach the handle. Sometimes the handle can move on the spindle.
Part 12.

NB the wardrobe and kitchen are one unit and the whole assembly is built as one module that is then lifted into the vehicle complete with tanks, cooker etc.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

This is an uncommon problem. I would suggest trying this first.
I would suggest removing the drain lever and then turn the spindle to the fully closed position and see if the leak stops. If it does then reattach the handle. Sometimes the handle can move on the spindle.
Part 12.

NB the wardrobe and kitchen are one unit and the whole assembly is built as one module that is then lifted into the vehicle complete with tanks, cooker etc.
View attachment 148278

Many thanks. I have literally tried about 50 times by removing the handle and tweaking the spindle so it's looking like bad news, I didn't realise it was one complete module, this sounds like a huge job and beyond me. A local campervan sales ( Harbour Creek ) have said they can put a borescope inside and at least diagnose the issue. It's annoying as we don't really use the tap and have just completed the NC500 for 15 nights ( absolutely incredible trip btw ) but I would never want to sell it with the issue so it needs to be sorted.


Many thanks for your time, it is much appreciated.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

PS, I have noticed that the filler hose from the water fill point is cracked and split and therefore I assume there isn't a vacuum in the system anymore but I can't believe that would have anything to do with it.

 

[WelshGas]

PS, I have noticed that the filler hose from the water fill point is cracked and split and therefore I assume there isn't a vacuum in the system anymore but I can't believe that would have anything to do with it.

Could the water filler pipe be allowing water into the vehicle that is dripping through the drain dropout?

 

[MarkHawkins68]

Could the water filler pipe be allowing water into the vehicle that is dripping through the drain dropout?

I did think that but my funnel spout goes past the split as it's just inside the filler cap. I'm not a plumber but I didn't think a ball valve had any perishable parts but the water is definitely leaking through the gas/ water outlet as I can see it when I remove the gas bottle. I can't believe there isn't an access panel underneath or in the wardrobe to get to the valve, as it's a mechanical part that can fail or be helped to fail by it's owner !

 

[MarkHawkins68]

I did think that but my funnel spout goes past the split as it's just inside the filler cap. I'm not a plumber but I didn't think a ball valve had any perishable parts but the water is definitely leaking through the gas/ water outlet as I can see it when I remove the gas bottle. I can't believe there isn't an access panel underneath or in the wardrobe to get to the valve, as it's a mechanical part that can fail or be helped to fail by it's owner !

 

[MarkHawkins68]

You have inspired me. Having taken EHU connector off, rear light cluster and then trim inside the boot, I can finally see the ball valve!

 

[MarkHawkins68]

 

[lohr500]

That's good progress. I guess the next thing to do is put some more water in the tank and see if it is definitely leaking from the valve.

 

[WelshGas]

That's good progress. I guess the next thing to do is put some more water in the tank and see if it is definitely leaking from the valve.

I don’t think it’s leaking from the valve but through the valve.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

I don’t think it’s leaking from the valve but through the valve.

I think it's a bit of both having been able to get to it. I would say the frozen water has ruptured the valve. I'm going to consider whether it would be better to cut a small inspection hole in the bottom of the wardrobe than remove the whole interior. Lots of progress today but more questions than answers ! Thank you very much for your help.

 

[lohr500]

Hard to tell for sure from the photo, but is that a hairline crack in the valve body to the right of the rotating section? Or is it just a piece of hair/carpet strand?

If it is a crack, you might strike lucky and be able to seal it with one of those two part epoxy putty sticks. Especially if you can reach down there to clean the surface with a small wire brush before moulding the putty over the crack.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

Hard to tell for sure from the photo, but is that a hairline crack in the valve body to the right of the rotating section? Or is it just a piece of hair/carpet strand?

If it is a crack, you might strike lucky and be able to seal it with one of those two part epoxy putty sticks. Especially if you can reach down there to clean the surface with a small wire brush before moulding the putty over the crack.

It was leaking underneath on the left hand side, where the nut meets the body of the valve and water drips through the outlet underneath so it's not in a good way! At least it's all back together now before the wife gets home from work!

The odd thing is the small nut on top of the valve spins freely by hand but also turns when I turn the valve lever, seems strange to me but I don't know anything about valves!

By the way I keep the cali spotless inside and out so I'm a bit ashamed of how dirty it looks in the photo, behind the trim!

 

[sidepod]

The odd thing is the small nut on top of the valve spins freely by hand but also turns when I turn the valve lever, seems strange to me but I don't know anything about valves!

I think this is probably key to the problem.

This is just a very simple ball valve, no different in design to the ones you’ll see underneath your kitchen sink. They’re generally a tight fit and need more than fingers to rotate them.
If you say yours spins freely then that suggests to me the valve body is ruptured?

 

[MarkHawkins68]

I think this is probably key to the problem.

This is just a very simple ball valve, no different in design to the ones you’ll see underneath your kitchen sink. They’re generally a tight fit and need more than fingers to rotate them.
If you say yours spins freely then that suggests to me the valve body is ruptured?

Yes I can feel and see the valve body move slightly when I turn the shut off valve lever. Just need to decide whether to try the 2 part epoxy putty which would then allow me to tighten the nut and maybe that would be enough to shut the ball valve off and that would stop both issues but I think I'm expecting too much! Guess I've got nothing to lose. After 2 months of trying to get to the ball valve at least I can now see it and it's so easy now i know how! I will take photos when I remove the panel again and post on here for others in the future.

 

[sidepod]

Don’t try to glue it. You’ll only end up doing the job twice.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

Don’t try to glue it. You’ll only end up doing the job twice.

I was going to do that just because I can't see any other way to replace it other than by cutting an inspection panel out of the wardrobe or removing the whole kitchen/ wardrobe unit which VW would probably want over £1,000 for and having spoken to 3 dealers, none them had any experience of this issue.

 

[lohr500]

As a last resort to avoid a full wardrobe removal or cutting access points, if you can stop the internal leak around the valve using epoxy putty, how about this :

Leave the valve in the open position and get a tapered bung to push into the drain hole under the vehicle? It may need a hole cutting in the underfloor tray to align with where the drain hole is. I've never crawled under there to see exactly where the drain exits the vehicle.

It would be a bit of a pain having to reach under the vehicle to pull the bung when you want to drain the tank, but a lot less hassle than major surgery to replace the valve.

As you say though, come the day you sell the van, it would need to be sorted.

But if the field bodge works in the interim it would allow you to use the van through the summer and then take your time over winter to do a proper repair. At the same time you should replace the cracked filler pipe mentioned in your earlier message.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

Don’t try to glue it. You’ll only end up doing the job twice.

I was going to do that just because I can't see any other way to replace it other than by cutting an inspection panel out of the wardrobe or removing the whole kitchen/ wardrobe unit which VW would probably want over £1,000 for and having spoken to 3 dealers, none them had any experience of this issue.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

As a last resort to avoid a full wardrobe removal or cutting access points, if you can stop the internal leak around the valve using epoxy putty, how about this :

Leave the valve in the open position and get a tapered bung to push into the drain hole under the vehicle? It may need a hole cutting in the underfloor tray to align with where the drain hole is. I've never crawled under there to see exactly where the drain exits the vehicle.

It would be a bit of a pain having to reach under the vehicle to pull the bung when you want to drain the tank, but a lot less hassle than major surgery to replace the valve.

As you say though, come the day you sell the van, it would need to be sorted.

But if the field bodge works in the interim it would allow you to use the van through the summer and then take your time over winter to do a proper repair. At the same time you should replace the cracked filler pipe mentioned in your earlier message.

We're on the same wavelength! I have actually tried a silicone bung ( with a cord attached ) but it wasn't a huge success and I ordered a replacement filler plate from campervan bits last night. I had the soft close boot module replaced by VW under warranty and they said it's because water gets on them through the filler. After my investigations yesterday I can see why it would have been getting wet. I've also ordered a new rotary control panel knob as that's started to slip. After 4 years of totally hassle free ownership, everything is failing at the same time!

 

[lohr500]

I was going to do that just because I can't see any other way to replace it otherwise than by cutting an inspection panel out of the wardrobe or removing the whole kitchen/ wardrobe unit which VW would probably want over £1,000 for and having spoken to 3 dealers, none them had any experience of this issue.

Looking at the parts diagram @WelshGas kindly posted, I'm not sure you would be able to remove the valve without getting the whole tank out.

I don't think you will be able to undo the fittings either side of the valve without first freeing off the pipework either side so fittings #10 and #11 can be unscrewed from the valve itself.

I could be wrong. Hopefully someone will read this thread who has been there before and can advise.

What does seem clear is that VW haven't thought about maintenance on the system, even if valves are normally very reliable.

 

[MarkHawkins68]

Looking at the parts diagram @WelshGas kindly posted, I'm not sure you would be able to remove the valve without getting the whole tank out.

I don't think you will be able to undo the fittings either side of the valve without first freeing off the pipework either side so fittings #10 and #11 can be unscrewed from the valve itself.

I could be wrong. Hopefully someone will read this thread who has been there before and can advise.

What does seem clear is that VW haven't thought about maintenance on the system, even if valves are normally very reliable.

Yes I've been thinking that too. I found a few images of a removed tank and I think it's the bracket that may be the undoing of my plan. I think the standard hose clips could be undone if I cut an inspection panel but I think the whole valve is secured to the tank with bolts and I wouldn't be able to access those.