Bathroom tap replacement

[Carryon Cali Camping]

You are most welcome! The forum is a great place to get help on various problems! Hope you enjoy your new GC680!!

Thanks…..when I read your post about a small amount of water leaking from the back doors, I was hopeful that I was on the right track……thanks again!

 

[mpill990]

Thanks for the Thanks!

Glad you managed to get it sorted.

The worst part of the job is the thought of trashing your big bucks van with a Stanley knife. Once you get over the psychological trauma, it's a fairly simple job

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[Pasper2]

Yep, great post just found this has happened to mine too! In the process of repairing, not looking forward to replacing the sealant!!

 

[EuropeanVanderlust]

Looks like we had some residual water in our bathroom tap- was just in the van getting it ready to leave on Tuesday and found that the faucet/shower head in our wet room actually snapped off- likely during a cold spell we had before Christmas. I found the VW Replacement part # online, but is there an aftermarket available?
We are a bit stuck, as leaving on Tuesday, but want to see if one of the Big RV stores in Germany has one that will work as we are passing through on our way to Spain and Portugal for 2 months....and will need our wet room functioning.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Steve58]

Can’t say how helpful this article was. Middle of an 8 week adventure and the cupboard under the sink floods. Article was a life saver. Thanks.

 

[GS O'brino]

Well despite our best efforts to drain down the water system our bathroom tap has been damaged during the recent cold spell. In fact we now have a shower inside of the bathroom cupboard

I can get my hand onto the bottom of the tap and feel the water leaking quite rapidly - although without being able to see I can't tell where exactly it is leaking from. It leaks with the tap off so I'm assuming that one of the unions or the actual tap body has been damaged - oh well...

Anyway the reason for the post is 'how do I remove the tap?'. Has anyone done this job themselves?
It looks as though I have to remove some internal torx screws and then cut away the mastic seal around the sink and lift the whole top section of the sink off?

I'm half thinking of cutting around the top of the tap and then fabricating a removable top plate so that future access will be easy..

Any help or guidance will be very greatfully received.

Thanks
Mike


Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

I am experiencing the same issue with the blue cold water pipe leaking at the o-ring. I have removed the blue part from the white pipe and plugged it to prevent further leakage.

Currently, I only have hot water available at the bathroom tap, but this temporary fix will suffice until I receive the new blue pipe from Germany, which costs €10.

Once the new part arrives, I will follow your instructions to install it.

 

[mpill990]

I am experiencing the same issue with the blue cold water pipe leaking at the o-ring. I have removed the blue part from the white pipe and plugged it to prevent further leakage.

Currently, I only have hot water available at the bathroom tap, but this temporary fix will suffice until I receive the new blue pipe from Germany, which costs €10.

Once the new part arrives, I will follow your instructions to install it.

Best of luck with the repair! Take it slowly and you'll be fine, the most difficult job is redoing the mastic behind the tap - patience required

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[GS O'brino]

Best of luck with the repair! Take it slowly and you'll be fine, the most difficult job is redoing the mastic behind the tap - patience required

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

I received the part and finished the job. The pipe connections seems poor and I don't fully trust it. I have not leakage at the moment, but I will wait for a few days before attempting to do the silicone checking for leakage .

 

[RachelD]

Quick how to below:

- remove sink unit and bowl (4x Allen screws under the sink and use a scalpel to cut mastic. Bowl 4 more Allen screws)

- completely remove the tap (you'll need a plumber's spanner shown in the picture below)

- note the tap tails will not push back in because they are secured by a stainless steel location pin (shown in pictures below) which locates a collar on the nylon tail connector. You'll need to access both sides of the tap to remove the pin. Hence having to remove the tap

- remove stainless location pin which is an easy push fit (use a 3mm Allen key or similar)

- push the nylon tail connector back in (a bit of silicon grease will help but it's an easy push fit). Push the location pin back in

- make sure all 3 pipes are secured correctly

- reassemble and enjoy your non leaking van.

Anyway I hope this helps.

It's a bit of a faff but definitely doable if you take your time don't try a force things.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Having had the exact same issue while 35 miles from nowhere last night I was very glad of this thread.
May I add a few details.

1. The drain comes off with the screw in the middle of the top of the drain. That puzzled me for a while.
2. The bowl allen (not torx) screws easily strip the brass insert threads so take care they go back in straight
3 MOST IMPORTANT: when the connector pops out it break the retaining shoulder. Loosen the clip at the white hose, rotate by at least 110deg, before refitting.

I used a tiny allen key to push the pin out from the back and pulled it just enough with pliers to allow the cold to be reinserted without loosening the shower feed and the hot.

Took me bloody ages but I’m half blind and fat so it was awkward but I am delighted at a roadside fix that should be permanent.

FYI the household shop in Ullapool is a lifesaver. I need a shower for sure now.

Thanks again for your post.

 

[mpill990]

Having had the exact same issue while 35 miles from nowhere last night I was very glad of this thread.
May I add a few details.

1. The drain comes off with the screw in the middle of the top of the drain. That puzzled me for a while.
2. The bowl allen (not torx) screws easily strip the brass insert threads so take care they go back in straight
3 MOST IMPORTANT: when the connector pops out it break the retaining shoulder. Loosen the clip at the white hose, rotate by at least 110deg, before refitting.

I used a tiny allen key to push the pin out from the back and pulled it just enough with pliers to allow the cold to be reinserted without loosening the shower feed and the hot.

Took me bloody ages but I’m half blind and fat so it was awkward but I am delighted at a roadside fix that should be permanent.

FYI the household shop in Ullapool is a lifesaver. I need a shower for sure now.

Thanks again for your post.

Good job! Was it really that cold in Ulapool last night?

Sent from my Pixel 9a using Tapatalk

 

[RachelD]

Last night was very nice but today, in the sunshine, in the van … it was 30C and I was putting in serious effort.
Now I’m parked up beside a loch and feeling wonderfully clean and refreshed after a nice hot shower.
In love with the van again. View attachment IMG_5259.jpeg

 

[mpill990]

Last night was very nice but today, in the sunshine, in the van … it was 30C and I was putting in serious effort.
Now I’m parked up beside a loch and feeling wonderfully clean and refreshed after a nice hot shower.
In love with the van again. View attachment 135350

Ah nice - that's what van life is all about

Sent from my Pixel 9a using Tapatalk

 

[Razor Crest]

I too now have a leak. I saw on the FB page, someone had put an inspection hatch on the side of the bathroom unit. I measured and think a 4 inch round hatch could go there. I wonder if anyone can think of a reason not to do it?

 

[PaulGC680]

Hi
Firstly thank you Linda for the detailed description and images of the bathroom tap pipe disconnect issue, how can German engineers not make it more easily accessible?
I post this from Lichtenstein, we are on a 3 week trip from uk culminating at the Austrian GP .
With water coming out the rear floor joint when parked on a steep Swiizz hill and then the discovery of a wet bathroom cupboard. We have the same pipe/tap issue. Probably carried over from last winter but not noticed.
Due to small amount of water currently leaking in cupboard, I think it is partial pipe disconnect only.
Travelling with limited tools etc. no chance of full repair.
A couple of questions
Is there just one water pump, located where?
When I shut any tap, and the pump stops, presumably there is remaining water pressure in the pipes. I believe this excess pressure is then leaking out? Or is the bathroom tap lower than the water tank level ( when full) and a siphoning effect?
With the locking pin making it probably impossible to re engage the pipe.
Could I put a pipe clamp on the feed that is leaking.( mole grips)
Or will the excess pressure back feed through the tap, and leak anyway?
With such lovely weather and good campsites we have avoided using the shower or rotating the tap, in fear that the pipe fully disconnects.
Any comments appreciated.
Following a slight negative - must add how much we are enjoying the Grand California overall

 

[zil4519038green]

Hello all, thank you for this very detailed set of instructions, I am having exactly the same leaking tap issue. I have managed to cut the sealant and have the sink loose, apart from the fact that I can't work out to disconnect the sink from the waste / trap to allow the sink to be swung out of the way completely to allow me to proceed to the next step. I've tried just pulling the waste / drain from under the sink but can't get it to budge, can anyone tell me how to disconnect it?

Pics of what I'm talking about attached.

Many thanks in advance!

Quick how to below:

- remove sink unit and bowl (4x Allen screws under the sink and use a scalpel to cut mastic. Bowl 4 more Allen screws)

- completely remove the tap (you'll need a plumber's spanner shown in the picture below)

- note the tap tails will not push back in because they are secured by a stainless steel location pin (shown in pictures below) which locates a collar on the nylon tail connector. You'll need to access both sides of the tap to remove the pin. Hence having to remove the tap

- remove stainless location pin which is an easy push fit (use a 3mm Allen key or similar)

- push the nylon tail connector back in (a bit of silicon grease will help but it's an easy push fit). Push the location pin back in

- make sure all 3 pipes are secured correctly

- reassemble and enjoy your non leaking van.

Anyway I hope this helps.

It's a bit of a faff but definitely doable if you take your time don't try a force things.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[Benh76]

Think @RachelD mentioned this earlier in this thread

1. The drain comes off with the screw in the middle of the top of the drain. That puzzled me for a while.

 

[zil4519038green]

Think @RachelD mentioned this earlier in this thread

1. The drain comes off with the screw in the middle of the top of the drain. That puzzled me for a while.

Ah brilliant, thank you @Benh76 , I hadn't spotted that, thanks very much! Will try that now

 

[zil4519038green]

Hello again on this leaky tap issue

I followed all the instructions above (thank you so much everyone) and got it fixed, no leaks. However, a few weeks on and it is now leaking again with the tap tails seeming to have popped off again despite no freezing conditions. So, could anyone tell me:

1. is this really what is meant to happen as a frost protection measure, and is there some other cause for this happening? Is it likely that I need to replace a part rather than just assemble it back together again? Nothing appears obviously damaged or cracked. I've seen a few mention that buying a new shower / tap assembly, would that be overkill and a waste of the £200 or so quid that it costs?
2. could someone explain further about the idea of making a larger access hole to allow further repairs of this issue in future without ruining the sealant / mastic and having to take the sink off again? @mpill990 mentioned doing this. I'm not sure where you would cut the hole to allow this...? I wondered about making an access hole (with an access hatch) in the side of the sink itself next to the tap tails but I reckon the plastic which the sink is made of would be too brittle to allow this to be installed successfully.

this is incredibly frustrating! Very thankful for all the help on this forum.

 

[mpill990]

Hello again on this leaky tap issue

I followed all the instructions above (thank you so much everyone) and got it fixed, no leaks. However, a few weeks on and it is now leaking again with the tap tails seeming to have popped off again despite no freezing conditions. So, could anyone tell me:

1. is this really what is meant to happen as a frost protection measure, and is there some other cause for this happening? Is it likely that I need to replace a part rather than just assemble it back together again? Nothing appears obviously damaged or cracked. I've seen a few mention that buying a new shower / tap assembly, would that be overkill and a waste of the £200 or so quid that it costs?
2. could someone explain further about the idea of making a larger access hole to allow further repairs of this issue in future without ruining the sealant / mastic and having to take the sink off again? @mpill990 mentioned doing this. I'm not sure where you would cut the hole to allow this...? I wondered about making an access hole (with an access hatch) in the side of the sink itself next to the tap tails but I reckon the plastic which the sink is made of would be too brittle to allow this to be installed successfully.

this is incredibly frustrating! Very thankful for all the help on this forum.

I didn't in the end install a hatch. I've followed the drain down procedure since and haven't had further problems.
Re: your pipe dislodging again you'll probably notice that when the pipe freezes and pops off it damages the nylon retaining lip on the pipe. If you rotate the pipe a few degrees when you reassemble to where the retaining lip is not damaged you'll be fine.

Sent from my Pixel 9a using Tapatalk

 

[Tazgrandcalifornia]

Thanks so much for sharing your solution and the pictures to this one, I had a flood of water flowing over the bumper and found both the warm and cold water pipes had disconnected themselves. I just sealed it back up and had the first shower since, seems good! Only one screw lost under the van floor

My van had previously been fixed by VW for another leak and I found they'd used some silicon grease around the brass nut under the tap to give an extra seal so I copied them this time around

 

[Nick T]

M

Quick how to below:

- remove sink unit and bowl (4x Allen screws under the sink and use a scalpel to cut mastic. Bowl 4 more Allen screws)

- completely remove the tap (you'll need a plumber's spanner shown in the picture below)

- note the tap tails will not push back in because they are secured by a stainless steel location pin (shown in pictures below) which locates a collar on the nylon tail connector. You'll need to access both sides of the tap to remove the pin. Hence having to remove the tap

- remove stainless location pin which is an easy push fit (use a 3mm Allen key or similar)

- push the nylon tail connector back in (a bit of silicon grease will help but it's an easy push fit). Push the location pin back in

- make sure all 3 pipes are secured correctly

- reassemble and enjoy your non leaking van.

Anyway I hope this helps.

It's a bit of a faff but definitely doable if you take your time don't try a force things.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Mike,
Thanks so much for this and especially the pics and clear explanation. Live in Finland so it gets cold. Had the van inspected at VW under warranty - obviously this was not covered as our fault for not draining the water system properly. Also told that the complete tap/shower assembly needed to be replaced they estimated 3-4 hours labour plus parts (between €750 and €1000) so ordered it from VW for €240 plus 20 postage to do the job myself.
Then read this, stripped down the sink and saw that the cold water supply had partially popped off put it back in, reassembled and everything works. Further reading - this is a design feature by the tap assembly manufacturer to protect the tap in the event of freezing.
Complained (let the wife do that as it's on a different level) that we were badly advised and to be fair, VW have refunded the €260 - they don't want the tap/shower assembly back and will compensate with 50% off our first service so a genuine win. If anyone wants a brand new boxed tap assembly, let me know!!!
Yes the job is fiddly and cramped but easily done with a modicum of mechanical experience. Top tips from my experience:
Take the door off the cabinet per Mike's photos
Scalpel rather than craft knife for the sealant.
Watch out for the 4th under sink bolt - it hides behind the sink drainage plumbing - took some pulling on the sink to realise it's there and put that one back first as I could not get it in last so had to remove the other 3 and start again.
Securing pin for the plumbing on the tap base - a real top tip from Mike - the dislodged pipe will not re-engage unless it is removed - I would have missed this.
Managed to undo the tap assembly with a pipe wrench and get it back but difficult - would advise using the plumber's spanner as per Mike, if available. Be really careful and patient when putting the mounting nut back on as the plastic thread on the tap base is easily damaged. Patience and make sure the thread is sitting properly - don't just graunch it on and wreck the plastic thread.
I found removing the plastic shroud that covers the plumbing in the top half of the cabinet useful (4 screws) as it allows you to see if there are any leaks when testing the system.
Plan on 4 hours to do it.
Finally - test the system for integrity prior to reassembling using a bucket - you really do not want to be on your back with the bathroom door ledge sticking into to strip it down again!!!!
First pic shows cold water pipe slightly dislodged - retaining pin still in situ. Second - reinserting cold water feed, retaining pin removed.
Thanks, again Mike and other contributors to this

 

[zil4519038green]

I didn't in the end install a hatch. I've followed the drain down procedure since and haven't had further problems.
Re: your pipe dislodging again you'll probably notice that when the pipe freezes and pops off it damages the nylon retaining lip on the pipe. If you rotate the pipe a few degrees when you reassemble to where the retaining lip is not damaged you'll be fine.

Sent from my Pixel 9a using Tapatalk

Excellent, thank you for the advice, I'll try that suggestion to rotate it a little