Driver seat swivel challenge

M

Mikeg

Messages
10
Location
UK
Vehicle
T6.1 Coast 150
Hey there-

A puzzle…

Has anyone figured out how to rotate the driver’s seat once you have the van up on levelling chocks?

You have to have the seat facing forward to drive the van up on to the chocks, then handbrake on (required even with auto transmission)… if you then release the handbrake to rotate the seat, the van rolls back a bit on the chocks… which is mildly alarming and leaves you off-level!

Any clever tricks/work arounds gratefully received!

Thanks -
Mike


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Hey there-

A puzzle…

Has anyone figured out how to rotate the driver’s seat once you have the van up on levelling chocks?

You have to have the seat facing forward to drive the van up on to the chocks, then handbrake on (required even with auto transmission)… if you then release the handbrake to rotate the seat, the van rolls back a bit on the chocks… which is mildly alarming and leaves you off-level!

Any clever tricks/work arounds gratefully received!

Thanks -
Mike


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rear chocks ? A lump of wood etc..

The van will move a bit but won't roll back, the park mode locks the gearbox with a pin to prevent rolling any distance, but it will move a bit.
 
We use the Thule levelling chocks… but even in “P” it rolls back a bit as you say. Probably just need to go a bit higher than needed to allow for a small roll back


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Nice! Good call. Potential for a rolled ankle… but I am 6’5” so have the legs for that move!


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Fair!


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I have a pair of cheap chocks that I wedge in after getting it level. Works fine. Chocks are small and don't get in the way, as with the levelling blocks, as they are out of the van anyway when on site.
 
I wondered about that as a possible solution. Thank you… I’ll give it a go (together with the long leg on the brake pedal from the passenger seat!). I’m also looking at fashioning a device to wedge the brake pedal down while releasing handbrake to flip the seat…


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I just stand on my left leg with my right foot on the brake pedal whilst I spin the seat then put the handbrake back on…………

Next week I am taking up contortionist lessons! :eek:
 
I just stand on my left leg with my right foot on the brake pedal whilst I spin the seat then put the handbrake back on…………

Next week I am taking up contortionist lessons! :eek:
Just think of the physio bills if the van moves accidentally - one foot on the ground the other caught half way in the door trying frantically to keep pressure on the brake pedal! :mute
 
One leg on the brake whilst I drop the handbrake and have the seat ready to spin , I’ve marked the exact position on the rail so the seat spins around with clearance , I don’t like the roll back and the clunk it gives the DSG box when shifting into drive in the mornings
 
This is the way I do....drive forward. Stop, put it in park, let it roll back under brake control onto the park lock, jump out, rotate seat, pull up handbrake....sometimes I forget the last bit and the van is less stable when moving around....less of a bang or force onto the park pinlock
 
What we do is ideally a two person task…
- Drivers seat to the right position along the runner
- Wind the chair back right forward then turn it back a little so the winder is vertical otherwise it scrapes.
- Press the foot brake down with your right hand and SWMBO disengages the handbrake.
- I activate the swivel chair, we turn it round trying not to scrape the plastic trim.
- It locks into camping position & the handbrake is re-engaged.

I can do it on my own, but it’s a real struggle

Be great to hear of a better solution
 
The expensive solution is levelling bags which you can inflate and level once the seat is swivelled and handbrake engaged.

The VERY expensive solution is air suspension.

The cheap solution and my chosen one is rccks/logs found on site with a pair of small folding chocks from Halfords (about a tenner) for when it’s properly wonky. In a SWB van I find +/- 3-4° is fine for sleeping if not for bagatelle or bar billiards ;-)
 
This is the way I do....drive forward. Stop, put it in park, let it roll back under brake control onto the park lock, jump out, rotate seat, pull up handbrake....sometimes I forget the last bit and the van is less stable when moving around....less of a bang or force onto the park pinlock

This sounds like a really elegant solution that potentially avoids the need to be a double jointed contortion artist…

Will report back after next trip


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I used to use chocks but struggled to remove them a few times when on grass so I stopped using them....I broke the handle on one when trying to remove it.
 
I've always just drive onto blocks, put in park, release handbrake, it moves slightly but then won't budge at all. Then can swivel seat. Never had an issue.
 
Similar to others here. Levelling ramps plus small chocks. Drive onto ramp(s), put chocks on the non-ramp wheels and put in park. Use footbrake to ease it down onto the chocks or the park pin, whichever comes first, and turn seat from there putting the handbrake on after.

Getting off them, it just takes a tiny bit of torque driving up the ramps to release tension on the chocks. If I'm on my own I'll often just use the park pin by itself to save jumping in and out.

As for those that say ditch the ramps, each to their own. We don't think a driveway awning is needed but others would swear by them - all depends how you're using your van and what matters to you.. We've had enough pitches where chocks have been invaluable (maybe 25%-30% of 170+ nights) for them to earn their place.
 
Hey there-

A puzzle…

Has anyone figured out how to rotate the driver’s seat once you have the van up on levelling chocks?

You have to have the seat facing forward to drive the van up on to the chocks, then handbrake on (required even with auto transmission)… if you then release the handbrake to rotate the seat, the van rolls back a bit on the chocks… which is mildly alarming and leaves you off-level!

Any clever tricks/work arounds gratefully received!

Thanks -
Mike


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Am I the only one remaining with a manual box? My solution is to go just a little bit more forward or back than required on the chocks, then clutch and foot brake, neutral, handbrake on, engine off, select 1st or reverse, clutch out, handbrake off, drift a few inches into position. Move to rear compartment, tilt backrest. Move to driver’s door, rotate seat. Rear compartment again, backrest up, handbrake on. Phew! Treat yourself to a cup of tea. Remember to warn others to stand clear before disengaging handbrake. It helps to move seat backwards or forwards into the optimal position before starting. The midpoint handbrake on/off is optional but gives more thinking time. It’s all much quicker than it sounds after the first few attempts. Chocks are often unnecessary, but on some pitches they can make life much more comfortable.
 
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