Inverter issue? SF7 30amp fuse keeps blowing.

Alexlex85

Alexlex85

VIP Member
Messages
178
Location
Hampshire
Vehicle
T5 SE 180
Hi gents,


I’m currently on a campsite with very limited internet and not much time to do any proper research, so I thought I’d ask the electrical/technical wizards here.


Every time I plug the 3pin adapter into the socket, the 30A fuse blows instantly, so I get no power at all.


I’m assuming the inverter could be faulty, but is that a reasonable place to start?

If so:

  • Where is the inverter located on a 2010 T5.1?
  • How much of a pain is it to replace?
  • Where’s the best place to buy a replacement?
  • Is there a straightforward DIY upgrade that’s worth doing instead?

Thanks in advance!


Alex
 
Hi gents,


I’m currently on a campsite with very limited internet and not much time to do any proper research, so I thought I’d ask the electrical/technical wizards here.


Every time I plug the 3pin adapter into the socket, the 30A fuse blows instantly, so I get no power at all.


I’m assuming the inverter could be faulty, but is that a reasonable place to start?

If so:

  • Where is the inverter located on a 2010 T5.1?
  • How much of a pain is it to replace?
  • Where’s the best place to buy a replacement?
  • Is there a straightforward DIY upgrade that’s worth doing instead?

Thanks in advance!


Alex
The Inverter is integral with the socket, one unit.
You have to remove the B pillar plastic trim. Top then bottom trim.
Replacement, VW, LLL Parts and eBay.
 
I’d plug something else in first before dismantling anything prove the adapter isn’t faulty.
 
I’d plug something else in first before dismantling anything prove the adapter isn’t faulty.
I have tried two separate adapters and both blow the 30amp fuse.hence why I think it’s the inverter.
Didn’t even plug a consumable.
There’s no other electrical issues with either lights, fridge etc
If the inverter is behind the B pillar trim, what’s this other one I keep reading about being either under the fridge or in the cupboard by the leisure battery?
 
I have tried two separate adapters and both blow the 30amp fuse.hence why I think it’s the inverter.
Didn’t even plug a consumable.
There’s no other electrical issues with either lights, fridge etc
If the inverter is behind the B pillar trim, what’s this other one I keep reading about being either under the fridge or in the cupboard by the leisure battery?
That is the Mains 12v charger that charges the Leisure Batteries when you plug the vehicle EHU lead into campsite power.
 
For future reference correct inverter PN applicable to California: 8K0907155 H
Worth noting the ones without the last letter or different letter could be for different cars eg: Audi, Seat etc and potentially rate to 100v instead of 230v


1785746089162.png
 
Before I go ahead and gamble £120 on a used inverter and still be limited to 150w and square wave, is there another oem-ish upgrade option without re-engineering the entire electrical and interior architecture
 
Before I go ahead and gamble £120 on a used inverter and still be limited to 150w and square wave, is there another oem-ish upgrade option without re-engineering the entire electrical and interior architecture
You could wire a 3rd party inverter directly to the leisure battery under the front seat with a suitable fused connection.
Just do the calculations.
A x V = Watts.
For every 100 watts output at 230 v ie: 0.5 amps at 230v. Then the Inverter will take 8 amps from your leisure battery / hour.

You could consider a standalone combined Lithium Battery × Inverter such as the Jackory. Many others to choose from.
 
You could wire a 3rd party inverter directly to the leisure battery under the front seat with a suitable fused connection.
Just do the calculations.
A x V = Watts.
For every 100 watts output at 230 v ie: 0.5 amps at 230v. Then the Inverter will take 8 amps from your leisure battery / hour.

You could consider a standalone combined Lithium Battery × Inverter such as the Jackory. Many others to choose from.
Thank you for the response WG
I ended up buying a replacement oem inverter since the only things I charge off grid are mobile phones, iPads and projector which should be sufficient.
 
Thank you for the response WG
I ended up buying a replacement oem inverter since the only things I charge off grid are mobile phones, iPads and projector which should be sufficient.
For iPads and phones etc, you are much better off investing in high capacity 12v cigar lighter chargers rather than using the inverter unless you absolutely need the 240v, thus avoids stepping the voltage up and to AC and then stepping it back down and to DC. It just wastes loads of 12v capacity. We use Anker ones but load of them available.
 
For iPads and phones etc, you are much better off investing in high capacity 12v cigar lighter chargers rather than using the inverter unless you absolutely need the 240v, thus avoids stepping the voltage up and to AC and then stepping it back down and to DC. It just wastes loads of 12v capacity. We use Anker ones but load of them available.
makes sense. ordered one of these. :thumb

 
Well, yesterday was a PITA.


I’ve been chasing a small diesel leak that was puddling on top of the cylinder head in the recess around the injectors. I blamed the fuel return lines, so I replaced them, only to discover there’s a reason the OEM set costs around £130 instead of the £15 Amazon special.


The aftermarket lines resulted in the engine cutting out above 2,000rpm. My only guess is that the built-in pressure valve isn’t flowing enough fuel or is creating too much pressure.


I put the original return lines back on and, thankfully, it now seems to be running fine and early indication leak free? Fingers crossed, everything crossed


Next up was an oil change, which is normally a nice, relaxing job… unless you’ve ordered the wrong oil filter because your EGR delete kit uses a different part number. Typical.


On the plus side, the DHL man delivered my replacement inverter. It was fitted and tested within half an hour, and everything appears to be working perfectly. The inverter came from a 2018 California, but I believe they’re the same unit. Cable tie to prevent plug pushing through the trim as I read it’s happened before.

Old PN 7E0 907 155
New PN 8K0 907 155 H
They look identical but not sure if there are any differences between the two of them.
A few photos below for future reference in case they help someone else.

IMG_2201.jpeg

IMG_2200.jpeg

IMG_2202.jpeg

IMG_2204.jpeg
 
Who knew Amazon stuff is garbage???
In my defence, I don’t usually go for cheap consumables or serviceable parts.

But after thinking it through, how bad can it really be, it’s basically just a couple of pipes joined together . I decided to take the gamble. o_O
At least amazon return policy is decent.
 
Back
Top