Sliding Window Seal “Upgrade”

[lr1602]

After a fair bit of research on the correct part numbers, I’m having a go at changing out the sliding window sashes on my 2013 Cali. Has anyone replaced the poor VW seals with the ones available from Matthew Navis? Pricey for a length of rubber gasket but if it works better, could be worth every penny.

 

[Perfectos]

The eBay link to assist others

https://ebay.io/m/EWjnZn

Seems expensive, i would imagine this is a commercially available product , not a bespoke item.

Further research may well turn up a suitable and cheaper source of the exact same profile rubber.

I would start by looking at products like this

https://www.screwfix.com/p/stormguard-upvc-door-window-seal-black-20m/89084

Stormguard uPVC Universal Seal

Replace damaged, worn or tired door and window seals with ease using this uPVC universal seal from Stormguard. It's built to fit most uPVC frames on the market and can be simply pushed into the existing groove on the frame to restore them to weather tightness. That'll then help you to conserve...

www.toolstation.com

Interested to see how it goes, whichever route you take , pls report back to help others

 

[lr1602]

Appreciate that, just on the hunt to see if anyone has changed out the original seals and, if they had, have the new ones performed better.

 

[yanathem]

I bought a pair of those seals. They are different from the original VW ones definitely thicker. My job consists of using weather proof seals so I was a bit miffed paying that much for two small lengths of rubber gasket.
But I can honestly say it’s a gasket I’ve not seen before. All the different samples I’ve got for reference this one that guy sells is completely different as in wall thickness thicker. I thought if one of my suppliers had this it could have been a nice sideline to supply and sell here.
Only thing though the window I tried it on which was the kitchen opener the window still leaked.
On my van those two drain holes just don’t work. I should have tried with a jug or syringe down the two holes first before I bought the gasket. When water still got through into the kitchen units it was then I removed the opening window again and tried putting water in the drain holes to see what was going on. Water was just running straight into the kitchen units. So if the drain holes still work on your van and water runs out under the side window glass. Then a thicker rubber might help with limiting the amount of water those drain holes can cope with.
If water isn’t running out under the glass then the alternative is clear gorilla tape or doing what I eventually done was to drill the two drain holes and use silicone tube fed into the drain tank below the window.
I’ve one unused gasket if you want to try it.

 

[WelshGas]

After a fair bit of research on the correct part numbers, I’m having a go at changing out the sliding window sashes on my 2013 Cali. Has anyone replaced the poor VW seals with the ones available from Matthew Navis? Pricey for a length of rubber gasket but if it works better, could be worth every penny.

Some success on the T6 Forum.

Original factory sliding windows.....anyone tried these seals?

So I've got slightly leaky sliders (really, only slightly leaking!). I took the sliders out and see the seals no longer fitted properly due to a little corrosion, but also they looked/felt a little 'flat'. I cleaned everything up, used some black glazing/rubber sealant to refit the rubbers...

www.t6forum.com

 

[lr1602]

Thank you everyone for your help with this. The T6 forum thread is encouraging so thanks for the WelshGas and the kind offer of your spare seal yanathem (happy to purchase that from you if you’re not going to use it) and the tips on managing the drainage. I’ve never really noticed any obvious leaking through the sliding windows on my van to be honest but the top rail of the sliding windows are both pretty well corroded now and the plastic deformed. My biggest challenge will be getting them open possibly as it’s been a while since I did and then they were really stiff then. Anyway, I have two new sliding windows to install so starting from a good place in that they shouldn’t have that corrosion talked about in the T6 thread and the seals should have a good chance of success Thanks!

I bought a pair of those seals. They are different from the original VW ones definitely thicker. My job consists of using weather proof seals so I was a bit miffed paying that much for two small lengths of rubber gasket.
But I can honestly say it’s a gasket I’ve not seen before. All the different samples I’ve got for reference this one that guy sells is completely different as in wall thickness thicker. I thought if one of my suppliers had this it could have been a nice sideline to supply and sell here.
Only thing though the window I tried it on which was the kitchen opener the window still leaked.
On my van those two drain holes just don’t work. I should have tried with a jug or syringe down the two holes first before I bought the gasket. When water still got through into the kitchen units it was then I removed the opening window again and tried putting water in the drain holes to see what was going on. Water was just running straight into the kitchen units. So if the drain holes still work on your van and water runs out under the side window glass. Then a thicker rubber might help with limiting the amount of water those drain holes can cope with.
If water isn’t running out under the glass then the alternative is clear gorilla tape or doing what I eventually done was to drill the two drain holes and use silicone tube fed into the drain tank below the window.
I’ve one unused gasket if you want to try it.

Thanks for again for this. I don’t see any water running out under the glass so the tube fix might be a good solution. Where would you have been applying the gorilla tape? Thanks.

 

[yanathem]

Hope the new windows solve this issue. Are they original VW sliding replacements or from a third party?
The clear tape would just have been used outside to seal the gap where the sliding window opens.
I wouldn’t have been able to use the window but it would stop the two cupboards getting soaked.

 

[lr1602]

Hope the new windows solve this issue. Are they original VW sliding replacements or from a third party?
The clear tape would just have been used outside to seal the gap where the sliding window opens.
I wouldn’t have been able to use the window but it would stop the two cupboards getting soaked.

Thanks, did you want to sell that spare seal?

 

[lr1602]

Just a quick update. The window came out easily. Bit fiddly getting the new one in but with a little help lining up the swiveling top pins it popped in easily enough. Here’s how rusty the old one had got.

 

[lr1602]

Hope the new windows solve this issue. Are they original VW sliding replacements or from a third party?
The clear tape would just have been used outside to seal the gap where the sliding window opens.
I wouldn’t have been able to use the window but it would stop the two cupboards getting soaked.

Yeah original replacements.

 

[Perfectos]

Just a quick update. The window came out easily. Bit fiddly getting the new one in but with a little help lining up the swiveling top pins it popped in easily enough. Here’s how rusty the old one had got.

View attachment 150020

Did that actually slide open ?

That is severe corrosion

 

[lr1602]

Did that actually slide open ?

That is severe corrosion

It did, and far easier than I thought it would. It did have a liberal dose of silicone spray on all the surfaces last time I did have it open mind. Please to say I now have a smooth action opening and closing windows installed. Will look to get those seals shortly though.

 

[yanathem]

Thanks, did you want to sell that spare seal?

After seeing the rust you have on yours I might swap the window seal in the sliding door to a thicker gasket.
That’s ridiculous is your van parked under the sea

 

[yanathem]

Yeah original replacements.

I never knew the opening part of the sliding window was available separately. I just assumed you had to purchase the whole window.

 

[Perfectos]

I never knew the opening part of the sliding window was available separately. I just assumed you had to purchase the whole window.

It's not, the op has two new windows complete

 

[lr1602]

After seeing the rust you have on yours I might swap the window seal in the sliding door to a thicker gasket.
That’s ridiculous is your van parked under the sea

It’s a good job it’s done. Don’t think it would have lasted another winter. Over the kitchen isn’t quite as bad but waiting on the replacement window sash to arrive. Have now ordered the Matthew Navis seals. All told it’ll likely cost 20% of what VW wanted to replace both full window panels (the only option they offered). Thanks again for everyone’s help.

 

[lr1602]

I never knew the opening part of the sliding window was available separately. I just assumed you had to purchase the whole window.

They are available, just not from VW. They couldn’t/wouldn’t even provide a part number Took a bit of research to work out which were the correct ones for my van but got there in the end.

 

[KGCali]

They are available, just not from VW. They couldn’t/wouldn’t even provide a part number Took a bit of research to work out which were the correct ones for my van but got there in the end.

Where did you get the replacement sliding windows from? Any part no's?

 

[lr1602]

Where did you get the replacement sliding windows from? Any part no's?

Got the right hand side from LLL parts and the other is coming from an overseas EBay seller. LLL list the various part numbers on their website and they will be specific to whatever the van variation is. They are a great help if you provide your VIN.

 

[lr1602]

I bought a pair of those seals. They are different from the original VW ones definitely thicker. My job consists of using weather proof seals so I was a bit miffed paying that much for two small lengths of rubber gasket.
But I can honestly say it’s a gasket I’ve not seen before. All the different samples I’ve got for reference this one that guy sells is completely different as in wall thickness thicker. I thought if one of my suppliers had this it could have been a nice sideline to supply and sell here.
Only thing though the window I tried it on which was the kitchen opener the window still leaked.
On my van those two drain holes just don’t work. I should have tried with a jug or syringe down the two holes first before I bought the gasket. When water still got through into the kitchen units it was then I removed the opening window again and tried putting water in the drain holes to see what was going on. Water was just running straight into the kitchen units. So if the drain holes still work on your van and water runs out under the side window glass. Then a thicker rubber might help with limiting the amount of water those drain holes can cope with.
If water isn’t running out under the glass then the alternative is clear gorilla tape or doing what I eventually done was to drill the two drain holes and use silicone tube fed into the drain tank below the window.
I’ve one unused gasket if you want to try it.

Did you find that there was enough clearance to remove and replace the kitchen side sliding window without having to do anything drastic with the sliding vertical blind? Looking ahead to tackling that side but the clearance looks tight.

 

[yanathem]

It is tight to remove.
First thing is to lift the roof up.
Remove the blind from the side runner clips.
Once the blind is loose tape it to the trim above the window.
Tape pieces of cardboard to the blind and bottom trim by the window.
Remove the sliding window like the side door and use the cardboard to stop the catches from digging into the plastic trim and blind.
Hopefully these photos will help explain it better.

 

[lr1602]

Perfect. Thanks for that. Makes a lot more sense now.