Request for advice cfca bitdi high oil consumption

P

pjotrk83

Messages
11
Location
Europe
Vehicle
T5 SE 180
Info: cfca bitdi 180hp 2012 Cali, 230.000km on clock. 1L/1000km oil. Dsg. Rev C Egr. Mainly long distances.

With this amount of oil consumption I am considering to blank this bad revision EGR and change to 5w40 oil. Another option is to get a revised engine. What would you recommend? And does someone have experience to share about 5w40 in this engine?
 
Changing to a different grade of oil isn’t going to make any difference whatsoever! 1L of oil/1000miles means your engine is only good for use as a boat anchor.
230k isn’t bad for such a fragile engine though.
 
Changing to a different grade of oil isn’t going to make any difference whatsoever! 1L of oil/1000miles means your engine is only good for use as a boat anchor.
230k isn’t bad for such a fragile engine though.
Thanks for your reply. I even experience different oil consumption per brand of oil, all 5w30. How do you know it won't make a difference? But I hear what you are saying. Change the engine.
 
I take it you are aware of the inherent problems with this motor? If not, just Google it. There must be thousands of posts alone on this forum on the subject?

On the plus side, you don’t need to worry about servicing it given you’re changing the oil constantly.
 
Yes, very well aware of the inherent problem. My request for advice is for this specific consumption, mileage, and EGR revision. I couldn't find that information between all posts.
 
Yes, very well aware of the inherent problem. My request for advice is for this specific consumption, mileage, and EGR revision. I couldn't find that information between all posts.
1. It's the EGR cooler that is problematic not the valve itself. All revisions can be problematic.
2. The oil consumption can be due to engine/cylinder bore wear or the turbos, less likely but possible.
3. A cylinder compression test or oil test on used oil that shows increased Aluminium levels will indicate engine , if high, or turbos.
4. The DPF will soon fail as it will clog with increased soot from burnt oil. Also VW state a normal DPF will last 120000 to 150000 miles normally.
5. If replacing the engine then DPF and EGR valve/ cooler and oil pump have to be replaced as well.
 
  • I had a similar failure of this engine in a 2010 Se 180 bitdi fitted with a C version EGR cooler dated 2015
  • from 60,000 miles to 90,000 miles the oil consumption increased as shown in the chart, note there is variation but I put that down to measurement inaccuracies.
  • The trend shows oil consumption increasing from 1250 miles/litre - 750 miles per litre
  • As @WelshGas and others highlight above this trend is always terminal
  • At 90,000 miles we made the decision and elect to put a new core engine in, as described in a VW technical instruction, we replaced a worn but running bi turbo at the same time which saves more than 6 hours of labour if done at a later date.
  • I am now on 120,000 miles with no oil loss between services (for now)
 

Attachments

  • Oil Consumption History.pdf
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To save your time as I’ve personally been down this route and considered all the options, your only 100% guaranteed fix is a new engine
Reconditioned engines are a gamble and so are used engines.

Feel free to dm me and I can forward you my receipts and point you to the right direction.
I have used a mobile mechanic to help me.
If u have space, a drive to keep tools and engines laying around, you can pretty much much get back on the road for around £6k
Where are you based?
 
The new engine does not come with a timing belt however the price above reflects what’s needed.
Mechanic will charge you around £1k
The new engine does however come with a new EGR which you can sell separately for around £700 and go down the EGR delete kit from Darkside developments.
Would also be a good time to clean your dpf. I’ve used concrete cleaner and all the performance readings are the same as a new dpf. There are companies which charge you around £200 for a cleaning service.
 
What's the TPS cost for a new engine these days, out of interest? I suspect I might need one soon :Depressed
 
Thanks all, for sharing your experiences. This helps me to choose an approach. I will give an update in a while when there is progress. I have a garage appointment in several weeks. Busy times there.
The DPF is already replaced and hopefully not damaged yet. Also work done on injectors.
I don't have the space and tools to do a replacement myself.
 
Thanks all, for sharing your experiences. This helps me to choose an approach. I will give an update in a while when there is progress. I have a garage appointment in several weeks. Busy times there.
The DPF is already replaced and hopefully not damaged yet. Also work done on injectors.
I don't have the space and tools to do a replacement myself.
The new engine comes supplied with injectors and glow plugs. Please note that the injectors have not been torqued to specification.

The engine is not fully timed or locked, although it is very close and may only require slight adjustment to align correctly. It is advisable to loosen the injectors before turning the engine—this allows it to rotate freely without fighting compression. More importantly, if anything has been assembled incorrectly and resistance is encountered, you can stop immediately, as this could indicate piston-to-valve contact.

It would also be wise to replace the coolant flange, as these are known to leak, along with the thermostat.

For maintenance, I carried out an oil and filter change at 1,000 miles (run-in) and then every 5,000 miles thereafter.

During the run-in period, avoid constant motorway speeds and keep engine speed below 3,000 rpm.

The engine currently has zero oil consumption, runs smoothly, and is very quiet.

If you choose to go down the EGR delete route, you can expect a more reliable and happy powerplant for years to come
Best of luck and keep us posted
 
Also discussed here. perhaps I should have shared it earlier on. aopolgies

 
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