Leaking pop top.

Ha, indeed!!
I did the same until I figured out how the interaction of all the elements came together.
All removed and nice clean gaps now. Flushed out all the drainage pipes and added a little sealant around the bottom and sides of the rubber drain grommets so hopefully all set for winter now.
 
I had similar. There were two causes.
One was that there was a spray of water coming in the top vent when the wind was in the wrong direction.
A little water looks alot when is beads like it is in the photo.
The second was that there was some of the stitches in the seams that I could see daylight through. I put a small amount of sealer on the stitching.
Seems to have been solved.
 
All removed and nice clean gaps now. Flushed out all the drainage pipes and added a little sealant around the bottom and sides of the rubber drain grommets so hopefully all set for winter now.
What do you mean by ".......around the bottom and sides of the rubber drain grommets....." can you show me?
 
What do you mean by ".......around the bottom and sides of the rubber drain grommets....." can you show me?
See picture below, mine looked like the sealant needed more sealant to be sure they didn't leak as I had water in the top of the A pillars after parked downhill in heavy rain and I know the drain pipes are clear after flushing with a syringe and no water ingress.sketch-1571863152371.png
 
Ah, OK. I was a little worried you meant the hole I have highlighted. This is of course the drain hole.
1572216793020.png
 
I had also made this assumption about seal D but it has two very specific areas where there is a gap underneath (no adhesive) that allows water from area Y to drain under the seal, location A, into area B. This gap is present on both sides of the van. You will over time see an accumulation of dirt (You can see some in your photo). You should clean this dirt away every so often.
If you want to avoid water getting into this area when the roof is closed you need to investigate the seal between the fixed roof, area Y, and the elevating roof part. This seal is attached to the front edge of the elevating roof. Is the lip of the seal making good contact with the location A? If not it will leak along the path I have described.

View attachment 52015
Hi all, I’ve got a leak into the cab, I’ve cleaned the drain tubes and check the seals on the pop top and seals in the image. But I’ve now narrowed it down to the seal that runs along the fixed part of the roof, which is close to what is marked on this photo as ‘Y’. When I press with my hand down on the fixed part of the roof I can see movement and the gap in the sealant closes. I then used a hose test to confirm my thoughts. Does anyone have any experience of removing the forward fixed roof panel about the driver and passenger seats?

I’ve pulled back the roofliner and see one large star drive type Bolt above the drivers seat, I’m assuming there will be another one at least above the passenger side.

Is the best course to remove the panel, clean off the old sealant and then apply new sealant and reposition the roof panel?

Thanks in advance
Jim
 
Hi all, I’ve got a leak into the cab, I’ve cleaned the drain tubes and check the seals on the pop top and seals in the image. But I’ve now narrowed it down to the seal that runs along the fixed part of the roof, which is close to what is marked on this photo as ‘Y’. When I press with my hand down on the fixed part of the roof I can see movement and the gap in the sealant closes. I then used a hose test to confirm my thoughts. Does anyone have any experience of removing the forward fixed roof panel about the driver and passenger seats?

I’ve pulled back the roofliner and see one large star drive type Bolt above the drivers seat, I’m assuming there will be another one at least above the passenger side.

Is the best course to remove the panel, clean off the old sealant and then apply new sealant and reposition the roof panel?

Thanks in advance
Jim
If you have the time and can remove the plastic roof cowl yourself then that's the best option and then reseal the cowl with black Sikaflex 522 or CT1 adhesive sealant, you'll need to apply heavy weights to the roof cowl or strap it down tightly for 48 hours to let the sealant fully cure.
If you can't do it yourself then a good caravan or automotive repair shop should be able to do it. I seems to remember another Facebook member (Rob Lewis) having it done for about £480 recently......

Rob Lewis - Kevin ... mine had had water ingress at some point before my ownership (judging by interior headlining!). It looked like corrosion was starting to occur under that front wind deflector thing above the windscreen. So, he recommended removing to see extent of any corrosion… really honest guy! Found no corrosion to speak of, although the beginning of was stemmed. Oddly found that the wind deflector thing wasn’t properly bolted down (suspect a poorly executed recall correction at some point). So minimal corrosion treated. Deflector properly attached. Signs of corrosion removed etc with paintwork sorted. All bonded back in place and has been fully watertight for all these wet months since with no reappearance of corrosion. Charged £480 and took less than a week. I was dreading what he was going to find under that deflector; could have been a huge can of worms!

 
Last edited:
If you have the time and can remove the plastic roof cowl yourself then that's the best option and then reseal the cowl with black Sikaflex 522 or CT1 adhesive sealant, you'll need to apply heavy weights to the roof cowl or strap it down tightly for 48 hours to let the sealant fully cure.
If you can't do it yourself then a good caravan or automotive repair shop should be able to do it. I seems to remember another Facebook member (Rob Lewis) having it done for about £480 recently......

Rob Lewis - Kevin ... mine had had water ingress at some point before my ownership (judging by interior headlining!). It looked like corrosion was starting to occur under that front wind deflector thing above the windscreen. So, he recommended removing to see extent of any corrosion… really honest guy! Found no corrosion to speak of, although the beginning of was stemmed. Oddly found that the wind deflector thing wasn’t properly bolted down (suspect a poorly executed recall correction at some point). So minimal corrosion treated. Deflector properly attached. Signs of corrosion removed etc with paintwork sorted. All bonded back in place and has been fully watertight for all these wet months since with no reappearance of corrosion. Charged £480 and took less than a week. I was dreading what he was going to find under that deflector; could have been a huge can of worms!

If you have the time and can remove the plastic roof cowl yourself then that's the best option and then reseal the cowl with black Sikaflex 522 or CT1 adhesive sealant, you'll need to apply heavy weights to the roof cowl or strap it down tightly for 48 hours to let the sealant fully cure.
If you can't do it yourself then a good caravan or automotive repair shop should be able to do it. I seems to remember another Facebook member (Rob Lewis) having it done for about £480 recently......

Rob Lewis - Kevin ... mine had had water ingress at some point before my ownership (judging by interior headlining!). It looked like corrosion was starting to occur under that front wind deflector thing above the windscreen. So, he recommended removing to see extent of any corrosion… really honest guy! Found no corrosion to speak of, although the beginning of was stemmed. Oddly found that the wind deflector thing wasn’t properly bolted down (suspect a poorly executed recall correction at some point). So minimal corrosion treated. Deflector properly attached. Signs of corrosion removed etc with paintwork sorted. All bonded back in place and has been fully watertight for all these wet months since with no reappearance of corrosion. Charged £480 and took less than a week. I was dreading what he was going to find under that deflector; could have been a huge can of worms!

thank you KG
 

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